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Champagne in Champagne

Champagne sales may have gone a little flat in the recession but a visit to this region of France is still a sparkling treat. George Hunter raises a glass

Published on February 17th 2010.


Champagne in Champagne

Fangio has a lot to answer for. The legendary motor racing ace of the 1950s was, it is said, the perpetrator of the decades-old tradition of Formula One winners spraying champagne from the podium, prompting a mass wincing among the producers of this king of wines.

The tale dates back to the days when a track near Rheims, the capital of champagne production, hosted the French Grand Prix. The president of the renowned Moët et Chandon house wanted to honour the Italian, one of the greatest racing drivers of the twentieth century, and took a magnum of the cherished fizz to toast his hoped-for win.

But warm and bumped about in the president’s car, the bottle erupted when the cork was popped and so was born a ritual responsible for a near-criminal waste of lovingly-produced wine.

The story may be apocryphal but it is just one of dozens of myths, legends, historical titbits and fascinating facts one learns on a champagne tour organised by specialist operator Grape Escapes.

I was enthralled by it as Moët et Chandon senior sommelier Marc Servan presided over our private tasting, following a tour of the miles of cellars carved into the chalk under the house’s historic headquarters in Epernay.

Like the prestigious wine it showcases, Grape Escapes’ tours are a perfect blend. In just one bubble-filled day, one gets to visit three houses, contrasting in size and style, meeting families and producers and getting a genuinely personal introduction to the cultivation, production, bottling and sampling of this 330 million bottles a year business.

Do not for a moment think this is a trip only for the wine buff. The tours are structured to suit all levels of interest in wine. Our little group included a couple who had booked to celebrate the fortieth birthday of the husband – someone who enjoyed a glass of wine but who was by no means an expert – and a hospital consultant. He and his wife clearly knew a thing or two about wine but certainly weren’t precious about it and happily chatted with everyone about their preferences among the 10 or so champagnes we sampled during the day. Me? Well, I don’t know much about wine but am happy to keep practising.

The day-long tour is ideal as the basis for a weekend break or can be booked separately to build into your own holiday in France. We opted for the cross-Channel ferry and the easy 2.5-hour drive straight to Rheims and dinner in one of the city’s great value brasseries.

At 9am the next morning, we met the hugely-knowledgeable Jean Yves Charpentier, the Grape Escapes’ guide. During our half-hour journey to our first stop, he was able to give the background to champagne; its history dates back to the Romans who brought the first vines to the area. The first bottle of champagne is believed to have been produced around 1660, thanks to a technique devised by Dom Pérignon. The fact that a bottle of champagne is opened somewhere in the world every two seconds is testament to its global popularity. And while sales have lost some of their fizz in the recession, demand is expected to reach 400 million bottles a year over the next 20 years.

Rheims central squareMoet cellars

While the big well-known names dominate our supermarket and off-licence shelves, there are, in fact, more than 15,000 winegrowers, with the smaller houses owning 90 per cent of the 34,000 hectares under production. The average size, therefore, of a champagne vineyard is just 1,300 square metres.

A surprising discovery for me was that champagne is produced from three different varieties of grape, Chardonnay, Pinor Noir and Meunier, the latter two being red fruit. Some champagnes use just one variety, others a mixture of two or all three.

Throughout our travels around the region, we were constantly delighted by the wonderful scenery and quaint traditional villages. Cramant is one of them and home to Champagne Bonaire. Producing 200,000 bottles a year, it bills itself as a “big small” house and there we were given an insight into production, including today’s automated turning and tilting of the bottles during the second fermentation process which gives champagne its bubbles. Then the neck of the upside-down bottle is frozen to remove the yeast deposit and the familiar cork inserted, before the wine is left to further mature. This year, incidentally, is widely-predicted to be one of the best vintages of the century.

Although 10.30am is a little early for me to start drinking, I was happy to make an exception to taste four champagnes here, all subtly different and all making it difficult to pick a favourite.

Lunch – with champagne, of course – was at the wonderfully traditional La Cave a Champagne in Epernay, where they excel in local cuisine.

Moët et Chandon’s historic headquarters is just around the corner and then our final visit was to Champagne Larnaudie-Hirault at Trois Puits, a few kilometres south of Rheims. Michel Larnudie-Hirault is now the fourth generation of this family to head champagne production at one of the region’s smaller houses. Still tired from the recently-completed harvest, Michel nonetheless enthused as he took us through the vineyard to explain cultivation techniques and the pruning that would start later in the year.

By then we were, naturally, ready for more champagne and four further tastings followed – again all subtly different and made all the more enjoyable by Michel’s expert explanation of their structure.

Now the temptation to buy was irresistible. With some Larnaudie-Hirault champagnes at €13 a bottle, this hard-to-find variety made a compelling souvenir.

FACTBOX

Grape Escapes’ champagne weekends start from £299 per person, including two nights’ accommodation, P&O Ferry Dover-Calais ferry crossing, full day guided tour, including lunch with wines and champagnes. Longer packages are available and the company also offers guided tours in Bordeaux, Burgundy, The Rhone and The Loire. Tailor-made packages can be created for groups, including hen weekends and honeymoon packages. For more information, visit www.grapeescapes.net or call 08456 430860.

For more information on the Champagne region click here.

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Peter HarrisFebruary 22nd 2010.

The fact that there are 15,000 growers in Champagne always makes my blood boil. How lazy are our wine merchants and buyers for restaurants and supermarkets in this country? I refuse to buy Champagne made by any of the 24 "Grande Marques". I have had better quality Champagnes by small producers for a fraction of the price. Take a car with a big boot because once you discover this for yourselves you will want to stock up! Drive the picturesque "Route de Champagne" and visit the little villages spaced evenly along the road like Vertus where they have at least 15 Champagne Houses in the village and something like 250 labels produced in around the village. Lovely little hotels and restaurants abound. Reims and Epernay (main drag called L'Avenue de Champagne" The whole space under the city is just tunnelled out to store the fizz!) - definitely worth a visit too. Far too much to see in one visit. I have been about 4 times with my car on the overnight ferry from Hull to Zeebrugge. About an easy three to four hour drive depending on which roads you decide to take.

Peter HarrisFebruary 23rd 2010.

The Champagne-Ardennes tourisme office has a wonderful free guide book. You can also download some great guides from their website
www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk/…/tion.aspx…

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